Posted on 24th Jul 2010 @ 8:47 PM

Human Hair & Hair Weave

A hair weave is a very general term used to describe human or artificial hair used to alter one's natural hair appearance by adding additional hair to their natural hair or by covering the natural hair all together with human or synthetic hair pieces. The highest quality extension hair is human remy hair. Remy hair still possesses the cuticle layer, which is the outermost part of the hair strand; it resembles shingles on a roof. All remy hair has the cuticle layer of the hair flowing in the same direction, flowing the way it would naturally. The cuticle layer is important when concerned with hair tangling, longevity of the use(up to one year), and how well the hair shines. When the cuticle layer is intact and laying flat, the hair is capable of reflecting light, resulting in the hair shining.

Some of the benefits of hair weave are that they can lengthen hair, add volume and/or thickness to fine or thinning hair, and to add fashion colors to natural hair without the damage of chemicals. The process of adding colors to natural hair is usually done with strand by strand extension systems. One type of application is called a sew-in. Weft hair can also be applied by gluing directly to the natural hair using hair glue specifically made for hair weaves. The glue can be easily washed out using a special shampoo/conditioner that will remove the glue without removing the real hair. A special glue remover may also be used.

Extension hair refers to the weave hair being applied strand by strand rather than in long sewn together rows. Strand by strand hair has approximately 50-80 strands attached by keratin tips resembling the end of a shoe string. These can then be attached by bonding directly to the hair or using copper links, which provides the most natural look. The method is the most time consuming though, considering between 100 to 300 individual extensions are applied. The amount of time necessary makes this type of application a more expensive service than other options. Other types of extensions that can be added to the hair include ponytails or ponytail pieces. Just as any wig or wigpiece, the colors for hair to be weaved can range from "realistic" colors, such as red, black, brown and blonde, to other colors such as pink, blue, green and purple.

Remy weft
Remy hair is not always virgin hair (the term virgin signifies that the hair has not been colored or permed); once virgin hair has been colored or chemically processed in any way short of removing the cuticles, it is referred to as remy. Remy hair can be categorized in the ‘premium’ segment, as far as hair quality is concerned. Remy hair has its cuticle intact, and running in the same direction "unidirectional cuticle" to prevent tangling. The cuticles protect the hair from damage and gives the hair its natural look.

For commercial purposes, remy hair is categorized into two types:

Remy Hair Single Drawn
the hair is taken out directly from the scalp by shaving the head. Care is taken to remove the very short hair, with the longer hair, found in different hair length, giving a ponytail-like appearance.
Remy Hair Double Drawn
the hair is the finest quality with the same wave length in a piece. The hairs are arranged with equal lengths. There will not be any short hair in a piece.
Three qualities have been designated:

Quality A: an expensive type of weft hair made up of Indian virgin remy hair. This type is unidirectional and characterized by double drawn hair, where the whole weave is made up of hairs of the same length.
Quality B: made up of special double drawn hair, virgin remy hair, and is unidirectional. The length of hairs though may vary by up to 1-2 inches.
Quality C: the final quality of weft hair. The cuticles are intact and are unidirectional. The entire weave contains hairs of different length.

Non-remy wefts
Non-remy hair is perhaps the most popular and commonly available form of hair. It is also known as fallen hair. The roots and tips of hairs are all mixed up in non-remy hair. Tangling is a problem as a result of this, but still since they are inexpensive, they are the largest selling kind of hair.

Non-remy hair comes in two types:

Normal non-remy hair: generally the least expensive type of hair. The cuticles are present in different directions, and the hair is prone to tangling.
Tangle free non-remy hair: obtained by shaving off the cuticles or the ends. This process reduces the chances of friction among hairs and what remains is tangle free hair.
Single drawn is of a slightly lower quality than double drawn hair. The hairs will have up to a 2" difference in the tip; that is, some hairs will be up to 2" shorter than their original lengths. Double drawn hair is similar to remy double drawn wefts in that all hairs are the same length.

Three qualities are designated:

Quality A: consists of tangle free non-remy hair with the cuticles shaved off or smoothened out. The entire weft consists of hairs of the same length, with no short hair. This is a premium quality weft.
Quality B: the next quality in wefts made up of non-remy hair. They are also tangle free and have their cuticles shaved off. They are made up of special double drawn hair, with hair length of two inch difference, with no short hair.
Quality C: the final quality of wefts, made up of tangle free non-remy hair. The cuticles are again shaved off and the hair used is single drawn. This makes the entire weft have hairs of different length.

Synthetic hair
Synthetic hair is made of a wide array of different synthetic fibers. Synthetic hair, just as human hair, comes in weave (weft) and single strands for braids. Synthetic hair does not last as long as human hair because it gets quickly damaged from the sun.The quality of hair varies greatly, and if well maintained, synthetic hair can last up to a year. It will never look as human hair, as it is stiff and not bouncy at all. Synthetic hair is much less expensive than human hair. The costs can range from $10 to $20 per package, and around $40 for a full wig, depending on quality of hair, length, brand, etc.

Heating appliances such as curling irons and straightening combs generally should never be used on synthetic hair. There are newer versions of synthetic hair from some brands that claim to allow styling with lower temperatures of heating appliances. Generally people should steer clear of such claims because the golden rule with synthetic hair is that heat is not an option. Synthetic hair is better used for shorter wigs.

Typically when the synthetic hair is shaped it is best not to change it, it is "What you see is what you get".

Human hair
The hair shaft is made up of dead, hard protein called keratin in three layers. The inner layer is called the medulla and may not be present. The next layer is the cortex and the outer layer is the cuticle. The cortex makes up the majority of the hair shaft. The cuticle is formed by tightly packed scales in an overlapping structure similar to roof shingles. Most hair conditioning products attempt to affect the cuticle. There are pigment cells that are distributed throughout the cortex and medulla giving the hair it's characteristic color.

The hair cuticle is the outermost part of the hair shaft. It is a hard shingle-like layer of overlapping cells, some five to twelve deep. It is formed from dead cells which form scales that gives the hair shaft strength and do the best job of providing protection for it. The hair cuticle is the first line of defense against all forms of damage; it acts as a protective barrier for the softer inner structure including the medulla and cortex.

The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber. A healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer, as the cuticle also represents the structure that controls the water content of the fiber. Much of the shine that makes healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle.

In the hair industry, the only way to obtain the very best hair (with cuticle intact and facing the same direction is to use the services of hair collectors who cut the hair directly from people's head, in the form of a ponytail. This hair is called virgin cuticle hair, or just cuticle hair.

Most human hair used for weaves and wigs is derived from Asia (perhaps mostly China, India, Korea). It is collected from the barber's floor or Indian temples floor and aggressively treated with acid, and other chemicals which destroy the cuticle partially or totally. (Lower-quality "human hair" extensions are sometimes even mixed with animal and synthetic hair to lower the price.) In the hair industry, this hair is commonly called processed hair.

Processed hair comes in a variety of textures: yaki (closely resembles relaxed hair texture), silky (resembling very straight Asian hair), European texture hair straight (not to confuse with authentic European, this so-called "European hair" is straight hair that comes from India or China), curly (ranges from tight corkscrew curls to the varying degrees of wavy), and crimped (very small, sharp waves).

The "remy" designation originally meant that the cuticles are facing the direction in which they grew. However this terminology is no longer accurate. The word remy is being abused on the market, and generally accompanies processed packaged hair.

Indian hair and European hair
Indian hair has its own inherent advantages: it is simultaneously thin and strong. The hair is shaved in a ceremony previous to marriage, and then put through an osmosis process where the color pigment is removed. Then over a period of several weeks the color pigment is saturated back into the hair cuticles with over 54 color options.

European hair is a popular form of hair. It has a straight and soft texture. Adequate care must be taken as the market is flooded with fakes.

There is also a widespread misconception that soft and silky hair is the best quality. Any type of hair can be made soft and silky through the use of certain conditioners or oil like silicon oil.

Techniques
There are many techniques to weaving hair. The most common way is for it to be sewn on to very small cornrows or the stylist can use a heating appliance to fuse the hair segment onto very small sections of hair.

Bonding
Bonding is a popular temporary weaving method and a great way to add volume or vibrant streaks of color to your natural hair. Tracks of hair are glued to the roots of your own hair with a special adhesive. To prevent damage to your natural hair, tracks shouldn't be left for any longer than a week or two.

Tracking
In tracking, natural tresses are first braided around the head in concentric circles. The braids are sewn down, then extensions are sewn to the braids. Eight to fifteen tracks are needed for a full head. Care for this style as you would your natural hair, washing at least once a week.

To sew the weave hair, the hair must be braided into cornrows. The hair may also be braided into a zig zag shape to make things easier and quicker. The wearer may leave out a section of hair if she/he wants a part or half the hair weaved. So the hair won't appear lumpy, the hair is sewn horizontally across the head from one side to the other, starting from the bottom. If the hair is to have a parting, it's recommended that a weft of hair is glued as close as possible to part in the hair that separates the braids and the hair that the wearer left out. After those steps are finished, the wearer can have the weave hair cut or styled however he or she wants with her/his own hair blending in.

Fusion
The fusion method delivers one of the most versatile and believable weaves on the market. With this technique, a machine similar to a hot glue gun is used to adhere human hair extensions to individual strands of your natural hair (about the same size as a micro braid) for a truly authentic look. With a fusion weave, you can wash your hair every week and use products like gels and mousse to style. This is one of the most time-consuming (8 to 16 hours) and expensive methods (prices range from about $800 to $1,800).

To use a heating appliance, individual strands of hair are used. Hair is sectioned out as if the client is getting skinny individual braids. The appliance is heated to the correct temperature. The stylist attaches a section of the human hair to the client's sectioned hair. Depending on the style, a half head of fused hair could take about 20 sections. A full head could use about 50 sections. It is recommended that a trained and certified stylist use this technique because of potential hair loss and skin burning from the appliance may occur.

Recently cold fusion extensions made of 100% human hair (no yak hair dilution) have been introduced. These hair extensions do not require any heating elements, as the intense heat used to apply traditional hair extensions may damage them.

Netting
Netting is a technique which involves braiding natural tresses under a thin, breathable net that serves as a flat surface onto which stylists can weave extensions. Netting provides more flexibility than track placement because the stylist is not limited to sewing extensions to a braid. This style can last for up to three months if properly maintained. To care for your hair, wash it once a week and invest in a hooded hair dryer or heated cap for at-home maintenance. "You want to make sure your hair is completely dry so it will not mildew under the net."

Tree braiding
In tree braiding, the artificial hair is incorporated into the client's natural hair with the use of a basic cornrow. The best hair length to use is 24 inch hair. The client's hair is parted from the front of the head to the nape of the neck. The artificial hair is added at the beginning of the braid by folding it in half to create a cornrow with a knot in the front. The stylist braids 2-4 strokes and then pulls out a piece of the artificial hair, then braids an additional 2-4 strokes and pulls out another piece of artificial hair. This pattern continues until all of the artificial hair is pulled out. The stylist then adds additional artificial hair into the braid and continues the above pattern until it reaches the back. Then the stylist ties the end with a rubber band, or sews it down with weaving needle and string.

Clip-in and clip-on hair extensions
This technique is the least permanent and can be very effective without the negative things such as traction alopecia associated with glue extensions. The hair weft has small toupee clips sewn onto them. Usually a set of clip in extensions average eight strips of human hair in varying widths from two inches to eight inches. Usually starting at the nape of the neck, the hair is sectioned neatly, then the weft is placed onto this section with the clips open and facing the scalp. Each clip is snapped into place. It can be useful to lightly backcomb each section for a more secure grip. This is repeated until each clip-in weft is in place. Clip-ins can be worn all day and all night, but they must be removed before sleeping. Some people wear clip-ins just for night life, while others will wear them every day to work. This shows the versatility of this type of hair extension. Natural hair extensions can be removed, which makes it easier to style them.

Lace extensions
The most recent development in weaving extensions is lace extensions. Lace extensions are made from a nylon mesh material formed into a cap that is then hand ventilated by knotting single strands of hair into the tiny openings of the cap form, giving the hair a more natural, realistic flow than conventional extensions, and creating a lighter, more breathable cap. These extension units can be woven in or attached to the hairline with special adhesives. To ensure a proper fit, head measurements are taken into account with this type of weave.